Posts Tagged ‘cover crops’

Employing Nightcrawlers (Lumbricus Terristoris)


There will always be those who during economic hard times, and particularly economic meltdowns, prefer to take personal responsibility for food security rather than join angry protesters. Of course access to land will be necessary and in many cases there may not be enough land to feed oneself and perhaps dependents. It is recommended by some that very close spacing is a good way to maximize production, but I am not one of them. Though close spacing economizes space above ground, the roots below are cramped which would tempt the gardener to resort to costly soil additives of many kinds. A better practice would be to increase topsoil depth. In this regard nightcrawlers should be employed as nightcrawlers are Nature’s premier topsoil builders.

Rather than ingesting organic matter that is already in the soil they prefer organic matter at the surface and bring it down deep through vertical tunnels, mixing it with subsoil which provides the grit for shredding the organic matter. Like other earthworms they prefer partially decomposed organic matter that provides them with digesting microorganisms. These tunnels also transport oxygen and water, essential for the survival of both worms’ and plants. Surface mulch, therefore, is needed to keep the worms constantly fed. Even cover crops would need to be mulched, otherwise the earthworms may spend too much time hibernating at the bottom of their tunnels.

Continue reading »

More on Humus Building


We gardeners/ecologists look to Nature as our model for sustainable gardening, and rightly so.  But Nature doesn’t “model” a permanent, or climax monoculture of annuals, typical in our garden beds, and hasn’t needed to before we came along. All non-humans are perfectly satisfied with food produced by perennials and, since perennials are our humus builders, the sustainability of our soils was ensured. That doesn’t mean, however, that in growing annual vegetables we must operate outside Nature. That approach has failed and it is obvious that it always will. It is time we operated inside Nature, building on her vast experience of sustaining soils, the basic features of which are:

1)    Do not disturb the soil by tilling

2)    Recycle via mulch a minimum of one-third of organic matter produced.

3)    Never leave the soil bare

4)    No concentrated fertilizer amendments

5)    Never leave the soil without living roots

This fifth point has not been given adequate emphasis and there is a way that we can use annuals to behave somewhat like perennials.

Continue reading »

Foundations of No-Till – the role of perennials in creating beds


No-till without perennials is a non-starter since perennial roots are the primary soil builders and soil preservers – which Nature accomplishes effortlessly and with great economy. Perennial cover crops can be used in rotation to good effect, but then the land is tied up for long periods of time. garden path of grass

I’ve been experimenting with using the garden paths in rotation with the garden beds. This means having wide paths (4 ft in my case) and having them seeded with a polyculture composed of weeds, grass and an annual clover. Kentucky 31 fescue is the grass of my choice, since it is a bunch grass which avoids the labor of constant edging and provides open spaces for the annual clover and weeds, as well as facilitates in soil breathing.

It is understood that with constant mowing such paths do not root as deeply as would perennials used directly in the garden beds, but this can be manipulated by letting the grass grow during the last couple of months before switching to a garden bed. To provide the most stable humus it is best to let the grass and company go to seed.

Continue reading »

Stable Humus – You’re On Your Own


Though cover-cropping is a common practice of organic Humus and seedlinggardeners, what is still to be learned is how much can cover-cropping be reduced once the soil is charged with stable humus.  Since research is non-existent on this matter each gardener must do their own experimenting.

First, of course, the soil must have a surfeit of stable humus. This reminds me of what I learned as a teenager about farming in the Midwest, before tractors ploughed under the tall grass. Photos showed that on virgin tall grass prairies the grass grew tall enough to hide a man on a horse. When a piece of tall grass prairie was re-established after the land had been ploughed for several decades, the grass could grow only tall enough to hide a person. In other words the soil never could regain its original fertility. Some time later it was learned that forests, the premier stable humus producers pre-dated the tall grass (and mid-grass) prairies. This gave me a clue as to the importance of building stable humus in our garden soils.  

Continue reading »

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.